By Tom Gannon, Lynn Travel, Inc.
By comparison the history of the United States is relatively short especially if we exclude the settlement of the Americas by Paleo-Indian tribes thousands of years ago. In terms of existing structures, we only have two Native American sites in New Mexico, the Acoma Pueblo built around 1100 AD and the Taos Pueblo 1100-1400 AD that correspond to the 20 Medieval walled cities in Europe. We have to jump ahead to the 17th century to find another structure the Palace of the Governors in Santa Fe, NM, which is the oldest continually occupied building in the United States. In the mid to later part of the same century we start to find existing buildings, primarily in New England. Some examples are the Richard Sparrow House in Plymouth, MA, the Henry Whitfield House in Guilford, CT, the Fairbanks House in Dedham, MA.
By contrast Europe has 20 cities with significant walls from the Middle Ages and another, Chester, England with walls built by the Romans starting in 70 AD. Many of the twenty will be familiar to you. This article will concentrate on just one, perhaps, less familiar, Murten, Switzerland, pronounced MOOR-ten, not MURR-tehn.
To review your travel geography, Italy and Spain are each home to four walled cities. Spain features Granada, Toledo, Avila and Segovia. Italy boasts Assisi, Lucca, San Gimignano, and Siena. Saint-Malo and Carcassonne are the French examples, while German cities are Rothenberg and Nordlingen. The remaining sites are scattered from York in England to the Greek Island of Rhodes and Valetta, Malta. The remaining cities are: Visby, Sweden, Obidos, Portugal, Tallin, Estonia and the intensely popular, Dubrovnik, Croatia.
Frommer reports that of the many historic towns in Switzerland, Murten is among the most idyllic and beautifully preserved. Its charm lies in the historic old town, the array of outdoor activities, proximity to one Switzerland’s wine regions and magnificent sunsets. If you want to avoid hordes of fellow tourists, this is the place for you with a population of only 9,000 and located on the Rostigraben, the imaginary border between French and German speaking portions of the country. Switzerland evokes images of snow- capped peaks, winter sports, train rides through the Alps, mountain villages, cable cars, fondue, cheese, chocolate, and watches and clocks. Murten features architecture, history, amazing vistas, quaint shops, gastronomic delights such as Swiss fondue, all with one very unique difference it is located on a lake.
Return to the Middle Ages, by touring the historic sites such as the ramparts, Berntor, the old city entrance, the French Church, the German Church, Main Street, and Murten Castle and Town Museum, for your morning activities and then head down to the lake and stroll the Promenadenweg (promenade). The lake is surprisingly warm so swimming is a featured activity. One may also rent a kayak, stand-up paddle board, other water craft, or equipment for wind surfing. Boat trips to Neuchatel leave from the small harbor and take about 90 minutes each way or just spend 75 minutes on another cruise viewing the town, its walls and the magnificent scenery from the water.
Rick Steves points out that this loop cruise stops in the small town of Praz on the French-speaking shore which gives you the opportunity to hike through the vineyards up Mont Vully with a pretty lake and Alpine views. For the hardy and more adventurous there are 100 miles of sign marked bike trails. Steves goes on to recommend, one, an easy ride that circles the lake and Mont Vully. There are also 11 scenic hiking trails and approximately 55 miles of inline skating paths.
Top off your day with a magnificent sunset and then dine on some of the local specialties such as Egli-Filets, the lake perch, of course the Fondue, filet of beef or Zurcher Geschnetzeltes, veal and mushrooms in a cream sauce. The top restaurants are Restaurant Eintracht, Freiburger Falle, Meat & View, Kaserei Murten, and Hotel Murtenhof & Krone Restaurant. The Swiss white wine is very good, as well, but the best part of dinner may be the desserts such as Nidlekuchen, the Murten cream cake and Bundner Nusstorte, a sweet carmelized nut-filled pastry.
Choose your hotel like a romantic B & B, the Perron 13, or a boutique hotel the Adler or a bigger hotel with a lakeview, the Hotel Murtenhof & Krone.
Murten is not offered on any major tours, so to visit a train from Fribourg, 30 minutes, Lausanne 80 minutes or Basel and Zurich, each 2 ½ hours is required.
Comments